Monday, July 2, 2007

food-focused

A week or so ago, Nick and I went to the Le Relais de l'EntrecĂ´te, after some internet research about the best place to get steak frites in Paris. It was fantastic. There's no menu. When you come in, your waitress asks you how you want your meat cooked, and what kind of wine you want, and then she disappears. Five minutes later, a salad and a plate of bread appear on your table. Five minutes after that, you're looking at a moderately sized portion of steak, covered in mysterious pesto-esque sauce, accompanied by a pile of perfect frites. After we finished, Nick and I were chatting about what a great meal it was, and then the waitress showed up with what we later realized was the other half of our steak, and another plateful of fries. Amazing! We were way too full when we left, but really happy.

The meal got me thinking about how some of the best meals I've ever had have been in restaurants that do only one thing, like Le Relais. There's Diporto Agoras, a little cafe in Athens with green-trimmed windows that had two plates of grilled fish, chick peas, and mysterious vegetable mash on our table 30 seconds after we'd sat down. And Bale Well Cafe in Hoi An, where the proprietress taught to toast in Vietnamese, and demonstrated the proper way to roll the Vietnamese pancakes we didn't order.

It makes sense that restaurants like that would be amazing. They only do one thing, so of course they've learned how to do it really well. The customers aren't allowed to mess things up by ordering something other than the best dish on the menu. It's just like we learned in business school, focused factories that only make one thing are much more productive and effective. (I wish they'd taught us that with a steak frites case study instead of a hernia hospital case study. I would have found Operations MUCH more interesting.)

I've never had the experience of not having to order in America, but the way DiFara's is totally focused on pizza artistry and almost completely indifferent to customers comes close. The way people go on pilgrimages to Magnolia Bakery to worship at the shrine of the cupcake is pretty similar, too.

Anyway, the end result of all this food-related musing is that now I'm trying to figure out what one-food restaraunt I'd like to open. Think about it -- quitting your job to learn how to make meat pies, or french fries, or iced coffee, or whatever it is better than anyone else in your hometown, to the point where people take their friends to your shop to appreciate your genius. It's kind of appealing, isn't it? I think I'm going to make this my new small-talk-starter hypothetical, and bench "If you were a Major League Baseball player, what song would they play as you came up to the plate?" I know Sheldon's answer, and I think Megan could revolutionize morning to-go food by opening New York's first bacon stand. The obvious answer for me is cupcakes, but that niche is already taken in NY, DC, and San Francisco. Maybe Thanksgiving sandwiches? This is going to take some musing.

8 comments:

Judy P said...

Your writing is taking me to new places in Paris. Thank you for your fresh and funny perspective.

Ed said...

"almost" completely indifferent to customers? I swear, I bet that guy was still making pizzas one by one even while he was shut by the Health Department. I'd say the customers are completely incidental to his operation.

Christine said...

Good Morning, Anna. We don't know each other, but I've enjoyed following your travels. I'm a mom in the midwest with kids home for the summer, and it's nice to dream about traveling in Europe. I make a good pasta alfredo with lightly toasted sesame seeds. Maybe I'd serve that in my own little cafe with an herbal iced tea. I'd also like to sell about a hundred magazines in a sidewalk rack. And maybe have guest musicians.

Unknown said...

I'm so jealous that you're traveling Europe. I can't wait to do that someday.

Been reading your blog for a about a week, since it was on the Blogs of Note page.

Anyway, If I opened a one item-only restaurant, it's be some sort of comfort food. Probably Mac & Cheese.

Anonymous said...

I think it would be fascinating to have your own restaurant, something you could call your own creation.

I just have one question - Im new to the blogging world, and I was wondering how you go about subscribing to blogs?

~angusss

Ed said...

I am obligated to point out that Magnolia is absurdly overrated.

Also, meat pies r' us is clearly the way forward.

megan said...

I actually think I'd go with bacon sandwiches. Then I could stay open all day, plus i could totally corner the drunk market.

I'd say you could do sweet potato fries if Gins hadn't upped the ante on sweet potato fry obsession recently by consuming 2 lbs and then throwing up over the Brooklyn bridge on the way home. Excelsior! As is, I think your best bet is scrambled eggs, because of how awesome you are at making them.

Kathryn said...

Hello, good stuff here. I have recently mastered the art of eggs. Any style, any way I think they are damn tasty! I could open an egg restaurant, easy.

By the way, in London they do Thanksgiving sandwiches but it isn't called that, obv. It's just plain "turkey, dressing, and cranberry sandwich". Which is still fantastic!